Lake Como, Italy · Venice, Italy · Salzburg, Austria · Vienna, Austria
lakes, scenic trains, imperial cities, family friendly, alpine views, coffee houses, classical music, food
Varenna, Lake Como
Cloudy
Welcome to Italy. Once you're through Malpensa, today has one job: get you to the water, then let you do nothing much at all. Aim to reach Varenna with daylight still left so you can walk the shoreline in the golden hour, then settle in for a long dinner beside the lake.
Travel light on plans tonight. Let the jet lag drain away while you watch the light change over the water.
From Malpensa, a shuttle bus connects to the train network, and a regional train follows the lakeshore up to Varenna. Keep the journey unhurried; there's no need to rush after a long flight.
Villa lights start to switch on around dusk, which is the best moment for a stroll along the Passeggiata degli Innamorati before dinner.
Varenna
Varenna is a small, pastel-painted village rising above the eastern shore of Lake Como. Steep stone alleys wind up from the water, and a waterfront promenade links a string of lakeside gardens.
Vecchia Varenna
Vecchia Varenna is a well-regarded restaurant set inside an old stone building at the edge of Varenna's tiny harbour, with tables that sit almost on the water.
Bellagio and onward to Venice
Drizzle
Give the morning to Bellagio while the lake is still quiet, then it's all aboard for the ride to Venice.
It's a long trip by rail, so pick up coffee and snacks before boarding and settle in to watch the countryside go by.
A short ferry crosses from Varenna to Bellagio, and from there it's a regional connection back towards Milan followed by a direct train east to Venice.
You're trading one kind of water for another. Once you check in, a sunset ride down the Grand Canal makes the best possible introduction to the city.
Bellagio
Bellagio is an elegant lakeside town perched at the tip of the promontory where Lake Como splits into its two southern arms. It's known for its stepped lanes and hillside gardens, plus a run of grand old hotels along the shore.
Grand Canal Vaporetto Line 1
Vaporetto Line 1 is the slow local waterbus that runs the entire length of the Grand Canal, stopping at nearly every landing along Venice's main waterway.
Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi
Cantine del Vino già Schiavi, known locally as Al Bottegon, is a historic bacaro and wine shop in Dorsoduro, loved for its inventive cicchetti and glasses of wine poured over a well-worn counter.
Venice
Rain
The trick to Venice is timing. Get to St Mark's the moment the doors open, before the day-trip crowds pour off the boats, and you'll have the golden mosaics almost to yourself.
Once the big sights are behind you, slow the whole day down and let the back lanes and canals do the work.
This is a city you get around entirely on foot and by water, so wear comfortable shoes.
Save Dorsoduro for the afternoon. It's quieter, closer to how people actually live here, and a good antidote to the crowds around St Mark's.
St. Mark's Basilica
St Mark's Basilica is the great cathedral of Venice on Piazza San Marco, a dazzling Italo-Byzantine church with more than 700 square metres of golden mosaic covering its interior.
Rialto Bridge
The Rialto Bridge is the oldest and best known of the four bridges spanning Venice's Grand Canal, a single graceful stone arch lined with shops.
Zattere promenade, Dorsoduro
The Zattere is a broad, sunlit promenade running along the southern edge of the Dorsoduro district, facing the wide Giudecca Canal in Venice's university neighbourhood.
Trattoria alla Madonna
Trattoria alla Madonna is a long-running, classic Venetian restaurant near the Rialto Bridge, known for traditional seafood and a busy, old-school dining room.
Salzburg, via the Brenner Pass
Rain
Today the journey is the destination. The line climbs through the Dolomites and over the Brenner Pass, so pack a picnic and settle in for the ride.
Claim seats on the right-hand side after Verona for the best views of the peaks. There isn't much to do but watch Italy turn into Austria through the window, which is exactly the point.
The train runs direct from Verona up through the Alps and across the border into Austria, arriving in Salzburg by early evening.
You'll roll in with just enough evening left for a proper first dinner in the old town. Book ahead if you can, since the best tables go quickly.
St. Peter Stiftskulinarium
St Peter Stiftskulinarium is a historic restaurant tucked into the walls of St Peter's Abbey in Salzburg's old town, serving refined Austrian cooking in atmospheric, centuries-old rooms.
Salzburg
Rain
Salzburg's old town is small enough to cover on foot, and pretty enough that you won't mind the backtracking. Ride the funicular up to the fortress first thing for the clearest views, before any haze rolls in.
It's a gentle day with plenty of room to slow down for a pastry or a coffee along the way.
Work your way down from the fortress through Getreidegasse, then cross the river to the Mirabell gardens. Everything on today's route is within easy walking distance.
Finish with a barrel-poured beer in the monastery garden at Augustiner Bräustübl, where the tables fill up as the evening goes on.
Hohensalzburg Fortress
Hohensalzburg Fortress is a massive medieval castle crowning the hill above Salzburg's old town, one of the largest fully preserved fortresses in Europe.
Getreidegasse and Mozart's Birthplace
Getreidegasse is Salzburg's best-known shopping street, a narrow old-town lane lined with tall townhouses and elaborate wrought-iron guild signs, home to the yellow house where Mozart was born.
Mirabell Palace Gardens
The Mirabell Palace Gardens are formal baroque gardens in central Salzburg, laid out with geometric flowerbeds and fountains, dotted with statues, and framed by views up to the fortress on the hill.
Augustiner Braustubl
Augustiner Bräustübl is a vast, cheerful monastery brewery and beer hall in Salzburg's Mülln district, where beer is poured straight from wooden barrels into heavy stone mugs.
Wolfgangsee and onward to Vienna
Cloudy
Start with the lake. A short bus ride drops you at the Wolfgangsee, quieter and closer than Hallstatt but every bit as pretty in the autumn light.
By midday you'll be back on the train, trading alpine calm for imperial grandeur as you head towards Vienna.
A regional bus connects Salzburg to St Gilgen on the Wolfgangsee, and a fast train continues from Salzburg east to Vienna later in the day.
Save a little energy for arrival. An evening stroll along the floodlit Ringstrasse sets the tone before you've even checked in.
St. Gilgen, Wolfgangsee
St Gilgen is a picturesque village on the shore of the Wolfgangsee, set among the mountains of the Salzkammergut lake district east of Salzburg.
Vienna Ringstrasse
The Ringstrasse is Vienna's grand circular boulevard, a broad tree-lined avenue that loops around the historic centre past a run of monumental palaces, museums, and civic buildings.
Vienna
Rain
Today belongs to the Habsburgs. Book a timed slot at Schönbrunn and give the whole morning to it: wander the palace rooms, lose an hour in the formal gardens and the maze, then climb up to the Gloriette.
Break the day with a Viennese coffee house ritual. Here it's a genuine institution, not just a caffeine stop.
Schönbrunn and the Belvedere both sit a short tram or metro ride from the centre, with Café Central roughly in between.
Finish with Klimt at the Belvedere, or simply wander its free baroque gardens if everyone's had their fill of art for one day.
Schonbrunn Palace and Gardens
Schönbrunn Palace is the former imperial summer residence of the Habsburgs on the edge of Vienna, a sprawling baroque palace of some 1,440 rooms surrounded by vast formal gardens.
Belvedere Palace
The Belvedere is a pair of baroque palaces in Vienna set in tiered formal gardens, now a museum whose collection includes the largest holding of works by Gustav Klimt.
Cafe Central
Café Central is one of Vienna's grandest historic coffee houses, set beneath soaring arched ceilings in a 19th-century palace on Herrengasse.
Vienna
Cloudy
Trade palaces for pavement today and see how Viennese life actually works. Wander the Hofburg and the lanes around St Stephen's, then let lunch turn into a lazy graze through the Naschmarkt stalls.
The afternoon is pure fun at the Prater, where the old Ferris wheel and the funfair make for a light-hearted break.
Everything today sits within easy reach of the centre on foot or by tram, with the Prater a short ride further out.
End on a high note, quite literally, with standing-room tickets to the opera. You can slip out early if the day has caught up with you, and no one will mind.
Hofburg Palace
The Hofburg is Vienna's sprawling former imperial palace, right in the middle of the old town, a complex of wings, courtyards, and squares that served as the principal residence of the Habsburg rulers.
Naschmarkt
The Naschmarkt is Vienna's largest and best-known open-air market, a long run of food stalls, produce stands, and casual eateries stretching for nearly 1.5 kilometres near the city centre.
Prater and the Wiener Riesenrad
The Prater is a large public park in Vienna that is home to the Wurstelprater amusement park and its landmark Ferris wheel, the Wiener Riesenrad.
Vienna State Opera
The Vienna State Opera is one of the world's leading opera houses, a grand Ringstrasse landmark that stages a different production nearly every night of its long season.
Vienna
Cloudy
Your last day is yours to shape. If you'd rather stay in town, one of the world's great art museums is an easy and rewarding choice.
If you'd rather roam, the Danube unfurls towards Melk and the Wachau, and Bratislava sits just an hour away by train.
Whatever you pick, keep the pace gentle and leave room for a leftover craving or two before you head to the airport.
Send the trip off properly with a classic Vienna schnitzel dinner. Book ahead, since the best tables go early.
Kunsthistorisches Museum
The Kunsthistorisches Museum is Vienna's monumental art museum on the Ringstrasse, holding the imperial Habsburg collections across painting, antiquities, and decorative arts.
Figlmuller
Figlmüller is a historic Vienna restaurant near St Stephen's Cathedral, known above all for an enormous Wiener schnitzel pounded thin and fried until it spills over the edge of the plate.
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